Six entries from the captain's notebook,
and the bits we couldn't stop talking about.
- DAY 0116:42 · Departure
Flores Harbour
Labuan Bajo — Anchors up
We met at the pier with sun-cream on our noses and too much luggage, as everyone does. Captain Yusuf was patient. By dusk the boat was three miles out and the harbour lights were the size of a fingernail.
- DAY 0205:18 · Sunrise
Padar Island
Padar — A walk before breakfast
Up the spine of Padar before the sun. The three bays unfold below — pink sand, white sand, black sand — and nobody talks for a while. Coffee on the boat afterwards, brewed in a tin pot.
- DAY 0311:04 · Slack tide
Karang Makassar
Manta Point — Twelve wingspans
We dropped in on the cleaning station and counted twelve mantas circling underneath us. The biggest had a wingspan wider than the dive boat. Nobody surfaced for forty minutes.
- DAY 0407:30 · Dry season
Loh Buaya Ranger Station
Rinca — Walking with dragons
A two-hour loop through the savannah with two rangers and their forked sticks. We saw seven Komodos, a buffalo skull, and a kingfisher that didn't care about any of it.
- DAY 05All day · No plans
Pantai Merah
Pink Beach — A quiet day
Snorkelling, reading, a long lunch of grilled snapper and sambal matah on the deck. The sand really is pink — bits of red coral, ground up by a million tides.
- DAY 0618:50 · Golden hour
South of Labuan Bajo
Kelor & Kanawa — The last anchorage
A short hike up Kelor for one more view, then back to the boat for the last dinner. Someone brought out a guitar. Bioluminescence in the water by 22:00.